Mesa Verde

 Our adventure for today was to go to Mesa Verde.  After sleeping in until the sun came up and a fun breakfast at a diner on Main Street in Cortez we headed out to Mesa Verde.  As we were going through the entrance gate the ranger told us that our pass would expire at the end of the month.  This took us by surprise since we had just bought it a week ago and it is for an entire year but we had already gotten our money's worth since we had stopped at three national parks on this trip.  (Side story-- A few weeks after we return home I got a letter from someone who worked at the city of Wamego asking that I provide my contact information to the office at the Cimmaron National Grasslands where we purchased the pass.  The lady who sold us that pass realized that she had given us last year's pass but didn't have anyway to get a hold of us other than my name on the credit card.  She googled my name and found race results from the triathlon that we compete in every year which lists Wamego as my hometown.  She remembered that we had discussed a tourism event that Wamego hosts and called the city to get our contact information to make sure we got the right parks pass-- talk about customer service.)

 Our first stop was the visitor center to get tickets for a tour of a cliff dwelling.  There are some tight sqeezes as the cliff dwellings were not designed with people Arthur's size in mind but they did have a replica of one of the entrance tunnels so we could determine if Arthur would fit-- it was just right.  As we drove out over the mesa we stopped and toured several ruins along the route.  Mesa Verde was home to a fairly advanced civilization up until 1285 and then for an unknown reason the area was abandoned.  It is home to more than 600 cliff dwellings and 5000 archaeological sites-- with new areas continuing to be found.

We stopped at the archaeological museum which was fascinating.  It was possibly a little dated like many museums in the National Park Service but consisted of numerous dioramas of pueblo life that were created in the 1930s to employ artists during the Depression.  The details and intricacy of the buildings, figurines, and scenery were amazing but we failed to take pictures.  There were also some great displays showing the changes in styles of artifacts such as pottery or baskets over the centuries the area was inhabited.  Seeing the differences made looking at baskets and shards of pottery much more interesting.  There were also some exhibits giving details explanations of how some daily tasks were done such as grinding corn or weaving sandals.

Next we did a driving tour with some scenic overlooks stops looking across the mesa canyons to numerous cliff dwellings.  We would have loved to hike some but we were limited on time and our legs didn't complain much to sit on plush car seats after hiking out of the Grand Canyon the previous day.  Our tour was of Balcony House.  We had to scale a 30 foot ladder to enter the front side of the house.  This cliff dwelling was home to about 30 people.  It had a spring that seeped through the rock along the back wall to provide water.  there was a small plaza area looking out over the canyon.  While it was occupied during the 13th century the only was to access the area was through the 18" tunnel that we had to crawl out of at then end of the tour.  It would have been a chore to move a piano in.  

While we would have loved to explore the area more we needed to continue headed east.  We stopped for a brief lunch in Durango for BBQ overlooking the river.  Then we headed up and over Wolf Creek pass and actually had to drive in snow for a little bit.  On the other side we traverse the plains of the San Luis Valley with in a stone's throw of Great Sand Dunes National Park but we had to keep on driving to our destination-- an Airbnb in Fowler, Colorado.  I have driven through Fowler many times over the years and never thought it would be an overnight destination but the choices are limited in eastern Colorado and it just happened to be on our diagonal up to I-70 and there happened to be an Airbnb which was perfect for us.  After restful night in Fowler we continued on across the high plains and I-70 until we finally returned to the trees and rolling hills we call home-- always a beautiful sight. 

Grand Canyon- Reaching the Top

 It was the final day of our hike.  We were sad for it to be finish since we had enjoyed the experience of seeing so much of the canyon and really taking our time hiking but we might have also been talking about sleeping in a bed, taking a shower, and eating ice cream later that day.  After talking the with park ranger that camped next to us she suggested getting up early to start our hike out to make it as enjoyable as possible.  Neither of us slept well so we were ready to roll up our sleeping bags at 3:30am.  The trick was packing up camp in the dark and as quietly as possible as not to disturb the other hikers.  We really had to pay attention to where we sat down tent stakes or we would never find them in the dark.  We were headed up the trail at 4:30am so the first 20 minutes were in the dark making it a fun night hike with the light of the full moon.  You could see the head lamps of other hikers out bobbing up and down the trail on the canyon walls in front of us.  

The last section was supposed to be the most difficult with several thousand feet of elevation gain in 4 miles.  We had left early to beat the heat of the day and also to avoid sharing the trail with the crowds coming down from the South Rim since the last thing you want to do hiking up hill is stop for the masses to tramp past you.  While we were hiking we also got to watch the light change in the canyon as the sun came up and the shadows from the canyon walls grew shorter.  On this final stretch of the hike there are rest stops every 1.5 miles and 1000 ft elevation change which were great ways to break up the hike some.  We felt like we were finally getting some cardio work in.  

At about 7am we rounded the last switchback corner and could see Kolb Studios perched ahead of us on the edge of the South Rim.  And just like that we traded the solitude of backpacking through one of the most amazing environments to being surrounded by tourists from all corners of the world.  We probably looked a little ragged and certainly became much more aware that we hadn't showered in several days.  The Kolb brothers made their living at the Grand Canyon starting in 1904 by taking pictures of travelers and developing them in their studio on the edge of the canyon, we too had to have a commemorative photo taken at the trail head to mark our completion of this bucket list item.

The next item of business was to walk the half mile back to where we parked the car and then round up enough quarters for the coin operated showers at the campground.  We relished every drop of the 5 minutes of shower time our quarters bought us.  Most of the hike we had talked about celebrating with getting ice cream at the lodge but to our dismay they were not open yet this early in the morning-- what does a person have to do to get ice cream after hiking a Rim to Rim?  Instead we stopped at the gift store (which seems to be open at all hours of the day) and got a patch to add to our backpacking collection.  We stood at the edge for a few more moments and marveled at the canyon but with different eyes than a few days earlier since this time we were looking down on terrain that we had been immersed in.  We could see beyond the pure grandeur of the canyon since we had such a more intimate experience.

One of the rewards of backpacking is the meal to celebrate afterwards and since the ice cream plan fell through we went on to the Cameron Trading Post for brunch.  We had Navajo tacos with fry bread and French dip and were in heaven.  The rest of the afternoon was spent making our way across northern Arizona.  This required some tag team driving to accommodate for naps. We did stop in Tuba City to see the Navajo Code Talker museum in the Burger King.  We finally arrived at our hotel in Cortez, Colorado late in the afternoon.  We enjoyed more luxurious showers and a really good nap.  The lady at the front desk had recommended that we head downtown for the evening to a Native dance performance.  At the time we were questioning if we actually wanted to leave the room and forgo vegging in front of a movie for the night but we were so glad we went.  The performance explain several of the different powwow dances and the outfits worn for these dances.  The group also had multiple generations so it was good to see these traditions continued to be passed on.  Afterwards we decided to meander through the downtown and came across the Moose and More ice cream shop-- finally.  It was made even better since they were having a community event and the ice cream was free.  What a great date night!

Grand Canyon-- Going Up

 

It was another early morning getting up at 4am but we had breakfast reservations at the dinning hall at 5am and wanted to have everything packed and ready to hit the trail afterwards.  We had a hearty breakfast which filled us up more than our usual pop tarts to start the day.  We hit the trail about 5:30am which is practically midday hiking in the canyon during the summer.  The trail on the South Rim side was much busier than coming down the North Rim.  Most of the hikers were headed the 9 miles out to the top but we were only going 5 miles up to Indian Gardens Campground so we had a leisurely hike ahead of us.  We started going back uphill which we actually prefer to going down.  The steepest part of the hike was the Devil's Corkscrew, a longer series of switchbacks-- but switchbacks are always better than going straight up.  

We arrived at our destination of Indian Gardens at 7:30am and set up camp under complete shade.  The ranger's station had a small library so we were in luck with reading material for the day.  Our reading included books on astronomy, fossils of the Grand Canyon, and tales of being at park ranger.  We also enjoyed chatting with the gal camping next to us.  She is a ranger at the Grand Canyon and was hiking on her day off.  It was fascinating to hear about working as a ranger and what it takes to becomes a full time ranger.  She also does translation for the State Department since she speaks Tagalog, Swahili, and American Sign Language.  Through the afternoon we napped and watched a few deer wander through the campsites.  On the other side of the trees and stream we could hear all the hikers taking a brief rest while tackling the rest of the trail.  Other afternoon entertainment was another ranger program on safety in the Grand Canyon.

That evening we had our favorite backpacking meal- Thanksgiving in a bag with stuffing, instant potatoes, a pouch of chicken, and a handful of dried cranberries.  After dinner we made our way out to Plateau Point to watch sunset.  It was amazingly still with the only sound being the rushing of the Colorado River a few thousand feet below the cliff's edge.  The hike back was wonderful as darkness set in but with the full moon to light the trail.

Grand Canyon-- The Bottom of the Big Ditch

The hike ahead of us today had minimal elevation changes and was just 7 miles of hiking to our destination-- Phantom Ranch and the Colorado River.  However we would be hiking through "The Box" part of the canyon with black rock that can get extremely hot so we got an early start.  We woke up at 4:30am and were packed and on the trail by 5:30am.  It was a very pleasant morning of hiking since we were in the shade of the canyon walls for most of the hike since the sun wasn't high in the sky yet.  The landscape was much more desert in appearance-- gone were the pines we started the hike with yesterday and they were replaced by century plants and prickly pear cactus.  We walked along the creek the majority of the day as it wound its way deeper and deeper through layers of rock resulting in massive canyon walls surrounding us.  

By about 8:30am we reached Phantom Ranch and Bright Angel Campground to stake our campsite for the day.  We found a spot with great shade along the canyon wall that would provide shade in the afternoon.  It was a cool June they said in the canyon but air temps that afternoon would be easily over 100F with surface temperatures at 130F since rock and sand absorb heat well.  For years Phantom Ranch has been elusive for us.  Maybe its name fits in that regard.  Phantom Ranch is a dining hall, cabins, and a few bunk houses at the bottom of the Grand Canyon.  The only way to get here is on two feet, riding a mule, or taking a raft.  It's remoteness though doesn't keep it from being a highly sought after locale.  To stay the night at Phantom Ranch you call to make a reservation on the first day of the month 1 year before your trip.  Two or three times I took off a few hours from work to make this phone call.  It would take about 2 hours before I would speak to a person to find out that all the spots for the month had already been reserved.  I think you are more likely to win the lottery than to get a reservation at the Ranch.  We then decided that who needs a bunk bed- we can just camp.  Reservations for the campgrounds in the Grand Canyon have to be made 4 months ahead of time and faxed with multiple itineraries to the National Park Service.  We were rejected with this 3 times.  We finally got spots at the campgrounds but for a trip in June-- summer isn't an ideal time to hike at the Grand Canyon surprisingly enough.  But we were in and now we were finally there on our hike were Bright Angel Creek meets the mighty Colorado River.

Since we had a lot of time that morning we hiked the Colorado Trail which is a short trail in the cliff side that connects the two different trails that come down from the South Rim.  We were really amazed at the trails that were built by the CCC during the Depression.  The Grand Canyon obviously has a lot of elevation change but a good trail can make elevation much more manageable and this is the case with the trails here.  It was also incredible to think about how they were able to build the two suspension bridges across the river since all supplies had to be hiked down.  We watched a few groups of rafters coming down the River and then returned to camp for lunch and to hunker down during the heat of the day.  Arthur spent the afternoon reading and Alex sat in the creek doing some watercolor painting.  

Later in the afternoon we headed to the cantina at Phantom Ranch for lemonade-- so cool and delicious.  We also mailed a postcard to our nieces since all the mail to and from the Ranch is taken by mule.  Before dinner we attended a ranger program which helped pass the time.  We were able to get dinner reservations at dining hall at Phantom Ranch so we didn't have to eat boiled backpacker fare but a delicious stew, homemade bread, salad, and cake.  Our evening was capped with attending another ranger program on reptiles before heading to bed.  Luckily nights are cooler in the desert so it was down to about 85F when we climbed into our tent. 

Grand Canyon - The Hike Begins

The day began with what would begin to feel like an ostentatiously rise time, 4:15; can't get going until the shuttle arrives unless you want to hike the extra 5 miles to the trail head.  We opted to forgo the extra hike and loaded up at 5 am with other enthusiastic hikers, ready to get underway.

Soon we were at North Kaibob's trail head, eager to get going if for no other reason than to warm up.  At 9,000 ft, even in June the north rim's temperature doesn't match what I would expect from a canyon so associated in my mind with desert like scenes of the American west, but we were almost 4,000 ft higher than the Mile High City.  It's worth a moment to consider how amazing the size of the Colorado river, formed by snow runoffs even higher in elevation, is for its elevation.

Our  walk through time the day before certainly enhanced the experience now as we headed past layers of shale and sandstone  indicating the passage of incomprehensibly long stretches of time.  The scale of time blends itself markedly into the the scale of size, as you walk down alongside rock walls drawing you ever downward, almost a spiritual experience; a physical analogue for being drawn deep and deeper into the presence of the Infinite.  Colors and shadow, light playing along the canyon walls, they all melded to create unfathomable beauty.  Across so many dimensions, the experience was one of awe.

The descent itself wasn't too bad, though the trail was far sandier than I imagined.  A time or two that caused a foot slip, but never anything to bad or too dangerous.  We found the trails wide enough that acrophobia never set in.

As the morning sun rose, it did begin to heat up, but in the early morning, it was never uncomfortable.  We hit a water station relatively quickly, and taking the advise of the rangers, we were sure to drink and wet down our shirts and bandana's, providing us with effective mobile AC.  Soon, the path eased into a gentler slope, and landscape transitioned to more "Western" feel, with sage and sand forming the floor.


The local fauna also matched the feel, though Arthur missed it initially.  It was until Alex heard the stomach dropping buzz of an annoyed local that we noticed the rattlesnake curled up just alongside the trail.  Its worth noting that rattlesnakes really aren't interested on using their valuable venom on anything they can't eat and only attack as a last resort; in the Grand Canyon, snake bites don't come on ankles but on hands, usually attached to an inebriated male between the age of 18 and 35, so we really weren't in any danger.  Regardless, we were reminded that we were visitors on another creature's front lawn and that we ought to be more mindful.

We reached Cottonwood Campground, where we would camp, at 9:45 in the morning, beating the heat of the day.  It seems like a long time to hang around a camp, but we had more activities in mind.  After pitching our tent and securing our food in the safe box we headed another 1.5 miles down the trail to Ribbon Falls.  There was to be a bridge to cross the creek here but it was damaged from a storm.  Another hiker was there and he showed us the "best" place to cross the creek where the bank was less steep.  We are somewhat inexperienced in water crossings and would never have tried to cross this area on our own so we were thankful for his guidance.  Alex still ended up slipping into the creek and Arthur lost a sandal that would eventually make its way down to the mighty Colorado River.

Ribbon Falls was magnificent and one of the highlights of the hike.  The area around the falls was so lush and green with moss-- a complete surprise for being in the desert. We settled in up behind the falls to beat the afternoon heat. We ate our lunch, took naps, and Arthur did some light reading of the History of the Middle Ages while Alex worked on a few watercolor paintings.  On most of our travels we don't sit and relax much and we were unsure how we would handle this part of the hike since our goal was to be done each day before the heat and then hangout around camp.  We actually found that we did enjoy the time to slow down and watch our surrounds or get lost in a good book.  Once it was a little more shady we moved down to the edge of the pool at the base of the falls.  The constant mist was better than having the AC turned up full blast. 

Midafternoon we thought we heard thunder and were seeing more clouds build up.  We had been warned about flashfloods so we decided to head back to the camp ground.  We went a little bit further down the creek and found a better place to cross even if it did make the hike back longer.  Back at Cottonwood Campground we settled in and rinsed out clothing, made dinner, and tended to Arthur's feet to prevent blisters.  It was entertaining to watch all the little lizards dart around the campsite.  We fell asleep in our tent under a full moon that evening.

Grand Canyon-- Taking the long way around

On Monday morning we rolled out of our sleeping bags and tent at an early hour in the morning to make our way to Mather Point to watch sunrise over the Grand Canyon.  Since we were there in the middle of June the days are long and in most of Arizona daylight savings time is not used which results in sunrise at 5am.  We would have a lot of early mornings during our hike but if hikers aren't on the trail before sunrise you are getting a late start.  At Mather Point we joined a group of about 50 other people gathered to watch the light progress across the stone walls.  We tried to take in the grand scale of canyon from the South Rim, imagining what it will be like to walk across the expanse, to stand at the banks of the Colorado River which is barely visible from the Rim.

After sunrise we continued along the Rim to the Trail of Time.  The trail had way points marking out the time scale of the Grand Canyon and discussed the different geological layers.  It was a great introduction to all of the different layers we would walk through so we could better appreciate the Redwall Limestone and the Bright Angle Shale.  There were great viewpoints along the trail and we didn't have to share it with crowds at that time in the morning.  We actually saw more elk than people.  Through the morning we learned that the elk had made the South Rim their home-- they aren't native to the area.  There were actually notices on the water fountains asking visitors not to turn the water on for the elk.

With such an early start it seemed like half the day was over before the visitor center opened.  Alex loves the films shown at the National Park visitor center so this was a must.  Then we wandered onto the Geology Museum.


We headed back to our campsite to pack up and double check that we had all our gear for the hike.  We left the car at the Backcountry Office and checked in with the rangers there to make sure we had our permits correct and any updated trail information.  We weighed our packs and then headed back towards the Rim to grab lunch and wait for our shuttle van.  While it is only 20 miles across from the North to South Rim, to get there in a vehicle is a 200 mile drive.  We loaded into a 15 passenger van and settled into the back seat to watch the landscape of Norther Arizona roll past.  Most of the passengers were setting off on their own Rim to Rim hikes.  One was a hiker from Canada who was hiking the length of the Arizona Trail but due to some issues with dehydrating he was skipping the Grand Canyon crossing at that time to do the cooler sections of the trail at higher elevation.  The North Rim is at about 9000 ft.  The low for the night we were there was about 35F.  We were both glad that we had checked the lodge room availability repeatedly and finally snagged a room so we didn't have to camp.  We checked into our room and grabbed some pizza for dinner and ate it on the porch of the lodge overlooking the canyon.  The North Rim takes more effort to get to so there are significantly fewer people which makes enjoying the views a little more relaxing without the crowds.  We watched the sunset and then made our way into the lodge to hear a ranger program on the Desert Big Horn Sheep.  Besides hitting all visitor center films, another rule of travel is not to miss any ranger programs if possible.  We headed back to our room to enjoy the comforts of a real bed and shower before our early wake up call the next morning.

The Petrified Forest

Santa Fe was a wonderful city, one whose unique charm rivals any other city we've frequented.  Yet, the call of the canyon beckoned us onward.  Then it beckoned us to stand still again.  Of course, that might have been the highway system; an accident on interstate had us paused for two hours.  All was not lost, Alex and her organized podcast queue had us learning about the construction of Hoover Dam and her compact sketch pad kept her entertained as a stressed out highway crew rushed to clear the wreckage, knowing full well no speed would keep inconvenienced travelers from thinking them slow.

We did get going again, and it wasn't long before we were at Petrified Forest National Park.  Long ago, what is now the American southwest was a tropical rain forest, evidenced by the tree logs long buried and petrified.  Its pretty amazing seeing these logs preserved so colorfully by the various minerals involved in the petrification process.  Some logs as you walk by display with remarkable detail the trees rings marking the growth of a life in world of long ago, it all depends on the speed with with the petrification process continued.

We were able to get some short walk around the forest in as the neighboring Painted Desert; the very same minerals painting both stone and sand, but alas, the two hour traffic delay did cost us substantial viewing time.  We took in as much as we could and headed on to Flagstaff for our final supplies, then it was on to the canyon.  Between Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon, a mixture of desert brush and surprisingly dense pine trees rush by you, I hadn't though of it, but the Canyon's two rims are actually at a pretty high elevation. 

Upon entering the park, we set up our simple camp site hurriedly, wanting to glimpse the canyon whose grandness had catalyzed this entire trip.  That first view certainly did not disappoint.  We walked along the Rim Trail, taking in the vastness and wonder of the place, cementing in our minds the first impressions of how beautiful and wondrous a landscape so picturesque is. 

That evening, the darkness drawing us away from the majesty just yards away, we listened to a Ranger presentation about how people have thought of the canyon over time.  What's fascinating is how recently the idea of the Grand Canyon as a place of beauty, at least from a European settler's viewpoint, actually is.  The native tribes originally inhabiting this area were able to carve out live for themselves here, certain areas of the canyon are held as sacred.  The Spanish Conquistadors,  first among the Europeans to view this magnificent site, for one thing did not recognize the scale of the thing, having no way to realize the size of what appeared to be a tiny creek below, but for another just found the thing a nuisance. 

I try to have some sympathy for the Spaniards' unrefined taste in the natural world; these were men trying to explore and an impassable break in the land is in their way, and 16th century clothing, especially the chain mail and leather shoes of a conquering army, would tend to make someone less inclined to enjoy a pleasurable stroll down a rocky incline.  These excuses only go so far though.  These men were from a Europe enjoying a rebirth in art, architecture, and culture writ large; such indifference to beauty in the natural world is a talking point in which side of the Colombian exchange truly was the barbarian.

Anyway, we shall leave such speculations for another time.  We settled in for the night, ready for new adventures with a new day.  Omnia Vincit Amour.

Exploring Santa Fe

Saturday morning we rolled out of bed ready for a full day of exploring Santa Fe.  Our first stop was the farmers' market for breakfast.  Alex really enjoyed the walk to the market through the neighborhoods of adobe homes and high desert gardens that were in bloom.  On many of our trips Alex is happiest just wandering through neighborhoods, looking at homes and gardens, wondering about the people who live there and what their lives are like-- she probably inherited this from her mother.  Once at the market we checked out the produce and other wares before settling on breakfast.  We like to try a little of everything and this breakfast was a perfect example-- breakfast burrito, egg roll,  and a blue corn lavender donut.  As unique as breakfast may have been the conversation was even more out of the blue.  We were sitting at a picnic table and generally Arthur and Alex are more of a mind your own business, we don't chit-chat with everyone couple.  However, somehow we started talking to the gentleman seated next to us at the table and he found out we were from Kansas.  As it turns out he is an environmental lawyer and has represented the State of Kansas several times at the Supreme Court over water rights.  It was fascinating to hear more especially about the local water rights battles throughout the West and around Santa Fe.

After breakfast we headed back down to the Plaza area to check out the churches-- one of Arthur's favorite site seeing attractions.  The first church which is also recognized as the oldest church in America was the Mission de San Miguel.  (What facts can Arthur remember).  Then just down the block we toured the Loretto Chapel.  This chapel's claim to fame is a miraculous spiral staircase. (Arthur - more details).  The last church was the large basilica on the Plaza but as it turns out we were unable to go inside since they were ordaining priests so we settled for perusing the gardens.
From churches we transitioned to art galleries along Canyon Road.  We were just window shopping and tried to decided if we would put any of the art work in our home.  I actually was leaning more towards garden statuary. We did enjoy a brief stop at the Quaker mediation garden to relax in the shade for a little bit.

We made our way back to the Airbnb for a nap, or siesta since it was Santa Fe after all.  Our afternoon activity was a visit to the Museum of International Folk Art.  We weren't really sure what to expect with "folk art".  It turns out that folk art is art the is for daily use-- the art on dishes, rugs, toys, items for holidays or ceremonies, etc.  A large portion of the museum was one man's collection that he acquired all over the globe.  There were over 10,000 pieces on display and it was said to only be a portion of his collection.  While grateful for someone to share so generously with the public so we could enjoy such a cultural experience, I had to wonder where do you keep a museum full of stuff before it was in a museum? ( more thoughts from Arthur)

Dinner that evening was at La Choza-- also highly recommended by our Airbnb host and since we were there early we got a table on a Saturday night.  This is the perk of vacationing on the schedule of senior citizens-- up at the crack of dawn, brief nap midday, dinner at 5pm, and back in for the evening by seven.  Our dinner was excellent.  We were also thankful for a waitress who recognized our inability to handle the heat of New Mexico salsa and steered us clear from getting sauce on our enchiladas but off to the side-- just in case.  The meal was finished with enjoying some sopaipillas.  Arthur had to be instructed on the correct way to eat this delight but sopaipillas aren't just for show.  The oil they are fried in is supposed to absorb some of the burn from the chiles and the honey adds just a little sweet and a protective layer to coat the tongue.  Got to love desserts with a purpose.

To the Southwest

Well, it's about time to gear up another tale of Arthur and Alex's quest to experience some of the wonders of creation.  This time, the Grand Canyon.  Arthur's first encounter with the Grand Canyon occurred during a youth trip to California as a high school student, and ever since a rim to rim hike remained on his bucket list.  Now, as a career man with the means to fulfill that desire (and a wonderful wife perhaps even more ambitious for adventure than he), he returns to finish the job.

So it was that on a Thursday evening Alex and Arthur loaded up the car and headed out for adventure.  That night they stayed with Alex's parents, who marveled at Alex's itinerary for the trip while Arthur gratefully enjoyed Game 6 of the NBA Finals.  Friday was mostly consumed by driving, with entertainment provided by a carefully curated queue of podcasts as they appeared on the aforementioned itinerary.

So the miles rolled on, with a brief stop in Elkhart, Kansas, who, by virtue of their national grassland, hosts offices for the National Forest Service.  Alex wanted to purchase a yearlong pass to the national parks, a service not often performed by the Cimarron National Grassland, as it turns out.  Regardless, before too long we gave chase to the horizon once again.

As we went, grassy plains gave way to scrubbier vegetation.  Small cattle herds quietly munched in vast fields, somehow a mesa or rock formation ever behind them; Arthur's thoughts quietly drifted to old television shows like The High Chaparral and its epic theme song.  We both wanted to start our adventure, but the drive through such harsh yet beautiful country still lingers as a delightful memory.

We eventually reached Santa Fe and headed to the state capital building.  Perhaps no other capital building's construction better represents the mix of cultures in a state than New Mexico's capital building.  While state capitols established earlier in our history mostly emulated an architectural heritage brought over from Europe, a style I deeply appreciate, New Mexico's capital building, constructed from native materials, avoiding the columns and pillars I so often associate with state authority, and a "dome" modeled after Native art presents through architecture a very unique history of the intersection of several cultures that, while certainly not seamless and sometimes downright ugly, produced some points of optimism as well.  Arthur enjoyed the art dispersed on the side wings of the great building, Alex enjoyed some of the fabric arts just outside the rotunda.

After dropping our bags off at the AirBNB we would stay at, we walked down to the plaza for dinner.  Receiving excellent recommendations from our AirBNB host, we feasted on mole` and tacos as one of the finest eateries in a city known for fine eateries, and walked around the historic district.  Santa Fe, by virtue of its adobe construction, competes in several was with Europe as far as the feel of uniqueness.  Art shops proudly displayed wares of turquoise and silver, paintings of the Southwest, and sculptures of all varieties.  We wondered past some of the first churches constructed in what is now the United States, up a walk to a cross commemorating some of the martyrs of the pueblo revolt of 1680, an episode where the optimism of integration built into the capital was tragically not realized.   Our final stop was one of the downtown hotels which features a concert of Friday nights of Native American flute and Spanish guitar.  We lingered here listening to the soothing music before deciding to call it a day.

So it was that Arthur and Alex concluded their day, thoughts of wonders yet to be seen leading them to a night's repose.  Omnia Vincit Amour.